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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on installing a pair of dash cams, one forward facing the other rear facing.

I need a permanent and ignition switched power source for them. I'm hoping to use the passenger compartment fuse board, there are several "spare" fuses according to the jaguar documentation ( http://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/document/4A/2017/T19951/23624_en_GBR/proc/G1893934 ), 15, 19 26,27 & 35. Without testing each one I just wondered if anyone knew if they were live and ignition switched at all? If these aren't live then I'll try the fuses for features I don't have (fuse 14 rear seat reclining, fuse 12 side steps) hoping the power is there but nothing beyond them.

The camera I plan to use has a battery sensor, so the camera can work with engine off but if the battery drops voltage it shuts down to prevent a total battery drain. The switched circuit also changes the function of the cameras from motion sensing to active.

PS what is "Singapore Road Pricing " and why does it have a fuse? :?:
 

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Sorry, I can't help you with the fuse info, but definitely interested to hear how this goes as I would like to consider doing the same, at least one forward facing anyway . . so updates on what you learn would be appreciated. Which cams have you got? (...any web links to 'em?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't got them yet, but the one I'm thinking of is Blackvue DR650GW-2ch ( http://www.blackvue.eu/Blackvue_DR650S-2CH.php ), there was one the RAC offered but the reviews on the fitting left me undecided and then I finally thought I'd do it myself because I don't know that there's much knowledge of dash cam fitting (in general :( and Jaguar F-PAce is so new - hence my question :D ... besides its only two wires to connect, it can't be that hard! ... famous last words!
 

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Hi
I fitted a road hawk front facing dash cam, I have wired it into the overhead console to a ignition live so only on when needed.
 

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My Evoque front face camera has power from the rear boot 12v socket. The installer pulled all the panels and trims off to conceal the cables. He did a great job works a treat. £60 for the hassle factor was worth it, and you'd never know the trims had been removed. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The rear camera has to hard link to the front unit (if it linked via blue-tooth/wifi that would be better) and I need a switched and permanent live to the front unit. I want to hide the cables as much as possible so I was going to tuck most of the in behind the door seals. This leaves short areas from screen over A-post to door (not trapping curtain airbag in A-post) and around the B-post and then C/D posts. Where the cable will be unavoidably visible I'm going to cover it in white tape so it blends as much as possible. I hope it doesn't look naff, if I can root cable through behind trim all the better.

Lower down in the foot well to the fuse box, the cables won't be seen and just need to be secured so they don't make a trip hazard! The fuse box is there hence I wanted to hook into that if possible. Its a just plan right now, once complete I'll post photo's. The dash cam I want uses wifi to upload images to the cloud which are then visible to user via mobile phone. The images are also on the locally store memory but remote access makes a lot of sense, esp if in a collision which destroys the car (and hence the cam). Assuming I survived I'd like to have the evidence, so this appeals, clearly I never want to use it in anger!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
jonty1625 said:
for example this page is standard In-Control layout engine compartment fuse layout : http://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/document/4A/2017/T19951/23623_en_GBR/proc/G1893929
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Thanks I know this (I quoted the footwell fuse layout in first post) but it doesn't tell me if the spare slots are live or which if live are ignition switched. I will have to use a meter to test each one. I was trying to avoid this but it's not that hard. Problems arise if they are just dead. Then second hope is for using fuses for options my car doesn't have, in the hope the supply up to the fuse board is common across all models and that they are not dead too.
 

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Why not just wire a new live to the fuse board and through to the camera? An auto electrician would do that quick and simple, or just do an in-line fuse assuming the wiring will run through the footwell area behind the panels anyway an inline fuse is simple to access and change?

(And excuse my poor attention to detail on my part reading on my phone on the tube!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
jonty1625 said:
Why not just wire a new live to the fuse board and through to the camera? An auto electrician would do that quick and simple, or just do an in-line fuse assuming the wiring will run through the footwell area behind the panels anyway an inline fuse is simple to access and change?
Always a possible option, I will find out soon. I am waiting for dash cams to arrive. Before that I have an old convertible that I'm fitting new roof to this weekend so its going to be a while before I get this camera installed, I like to plan and know my options before I short out all the electrics (my least favourite task on car work!). Car electrics = fear!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dash cam fitted this weekend but not hard wired. When it s all done I'll post what I did step by step with pictures for anyone planning something similar. I have to say the facia design and internal trim in the F-Pace actually made this a really easy job (but I had to compromise on front camera location) it won't be everyone's taste I'm sure! The micro coax cable has been run from rear camera to front and is almost invisible, the power lead from camera to 12V power point is also virtually hidden. I doubt anyone would notice the cables unless I pointed them out. And no sticky cable clips used at all! Just the two adhesive pads for the front/rear cameras, so it should all remove cleanly when I sell the car!

A few points:-
1. GPS signal through heated front screen is fine
2. No interference of DAB signal from rear camera cable
3. The camera I bought is a WIFI hotspot but works with the in car hot spot, no interference.
4. The camera hooks up to the in car hotspot to link to the cloud, if only in car hotspot was on all the time!

I'm just waiting for the piggy back fuses and a cable crimper to arrive (by crimper I don't mean 1980's hair, I mean bullet connectors on cables) then I can hard wire the power supply in to fuse board. Looks like the panel around the passenger fuse box will have to come off, this might be the biggest challenge as the glove box is in the way! If it doesn't then I'm hoping to be able to move one corner out enough to get wiring hidden behind the panel.
 

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Thanks "Ra..", the more info, the merrier . . and any pics would be a bonus!

Sounds like it went more easily than you expected.

RaVolVoR said:
. . . by crimper I don't mean 1980's hair, I mean bullet connectors on cables
. . ah, what a give-away . . bet you still have 80s 'big hair' don't you . . . I can just imagine! :lol: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
catwoman said:
RaVolVoR said:
. . . by crimper I don't mean 1980's hair, I mean bullet connectors on cables
. . ah, what a give-away . . bet you still have 80s 'big hair' don't you . . . I can just imagine! :lol: :lol:
Actually I was recently at a 50th birthday party which was 80's fancy dress themed... my wife went for the crimped hair (hence I now know about these things) I went as Meatloaf.... that damn wig, long, straight and very irritating! I hated it! :lol:
 
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